Sunday, September 16, 2007

Friday 9/14

The Chateau Vincennes and St. Eustache and friend....

I spent some time on the computer last night making a list of what’s in town and looks like fun, and then Tom went over the list to figure out what things are either near each other or related to a metro line. One interesting sight that we have not seen is the Chateau Vincennes, rumored to be the largest keep and fortress still standing in Europe. And wouldn’t you know, it just opened after a lengthy restoration.

On the way we stop at St. Eustache church (which I have been by many times because of this wonderful sculpture) but never went inside. It, too, has been scrubbed clean, except for a patch here or there. Our next stop is lunch, across the street from Dehillerin, the holy grail of cooking stores. (As the card of a clerk we spoke to said in his French accent, “This is not William Sonoma! This is not Sur La Table! This is Dehillerin!” (He was actually making the case that their prices are better, but you couldn’t prove it by me. [Note since first publication -- since returning to the US I checked up on the copper prices -- Dehilleran is about half of US prices, so an excellent deal if one is going there!]) We eyed the copper cookware, made some calculations, and decided to return when the shock has worn off.

So off to the chateau. The structure itself is quite impressive, and unlike anything else I have seen in Paris, since it is large, imposing, and really old (although sparkling white with the new work). However, the experience was the worst I think we have had. There are two attractions covered by the entrance fee (you can walk around the grounds for free). One is the keep (fine), but the other is the chapel, which is actually a pretty good-sized church, which houses (purportedly) the crown of thorns and a portion of the true cross. Closed. Then, the high point of the tour of the keep is the video of its history and restoration. Broken. Add in the incessant tours of groups of French and Italians, and we were not happy campers. But this is Paris, so back to the apartment for a lovely green salad and vegetables (making up for lost time) and hamburgers.

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