Monday, September 16, 2013

CAPPADOCIA DAY 2: SINASOS VILLAGE, UNDERGROUND CITY, LUNCH BY THE RIVER, HIKE IN THE FAIRY CHIMNEYS

Our first stop on Day 2 was the village of Sinasos, a village not yet overwhelmed by tourism.  We had a brief orientation from Yesim, and a visit to the Church of Sts. Helena and Constantine before beginning walks on our own.  Built in the 17th century, it is considered a rock-carved church, and has been rebuilt many times. 
 











Then it was time to strike out on own own.  While some folks stayed in the town square, others explored the shops.  We made a wider circle to a hill with a view of the town. 
 The villagers once lived in the troglodyte homes on the hillside, but now live in modern  houses in the village. 
 I was glad I was not driving. 



 Yesim had explained to us that in the fall, the women, particularly, are very busy preparing the harvests for the winter.  This home had grape vines all over it, and grapes drying in the sun to be used in raisin molasses. 







 The juxtaposition of drying fruits and satellite dishes and patio furniture was jarring.  



 Once we all arrived at the cafe, Yesim took our orders and we waited for the coffee, which is brewed for a long time.  If sugar is desired, it is cooked in the coffee.  After the coffee drinkers finished, she explained the local traditions of reading the coffee grounds as a typical part of village life. 



Once we all had told each others' fortunes, it was back in the bus and off to an underground city.

The soft stone that allowed people to carve out homes on the hillsides also allowed them to carve cave cities to hide in when bands of marauders swept through the area.  Some cities could house as many as 5,000 people for several months.  They had to prepare them with food and water, air shafts and waste collection systems.  This one had a winery that was used all the time, not just when the population took refuge in the cave.



 An air shaft.
 This was a rolling rock door to roll into place if necessary.  There were small windows near the doors so the people inside would tell if the people outside were friends or foes. 

 



And now, off to lunch!  




Our lunch was also a highlight, since we sampled a famous regional specialty, a stew baked inside sealed terra cotta pots.  Our waiters brought out the pots, and with great fanfare, lopped off their tops, then poured out the contents.  Delicious as well as entertaining.  Dessert was apricots stewed in the raisin molasses, tasty but all but unrecognizable by taste as apricots.  I must have been too busy eating them to take pictures, since there aren't any! 



 The small pots are the vegetarian version of the stew.




After that magnificent lunch, many of us decided to take a hike into the fairy chimneys.  It was one last opportunity to see them up close and personal. 

 This is one reason that modern houses are preferred to homes in fairy chimneys. 


 Walking among them you can imagine villages developing. 







And now it was goodbye to Cappadocia, and on to Konya. 

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