De Young Exhibits -- Oscar de la Renta and Hawaiian feathers

The de la Renta show was a disappointment.  We have seen a number of shows of iconic fashion, Yves St. Laurent and Lanvin come to mind.  Every item was a work of art, not a pucker or a pull anywhere.  And the designs, even though now well known to us, were recognizable as ground-breaking and fresh and even revolutionary for their time.  

These garments were ordinary, with lots of what appeared to be poor workmanship, sometimes downright tacky.  A few were creations that began a whole pahse of fashion, like the heavily beaded, embellished necklines, and the beaded tops on plain silk skirts.  But most were just of their time, "Dallas" gone overboard. 

 

 The bodice of the dress below was made of silvery bird feathers, many cut to shape. 

 This one, worn  by Sarah Jessica Parker at a celebration for de la Renta, shows the puckers and bad seaming of the dress.  A lovely idea and bold design, but poorly executed.
 

 From Oscar we went to see feathers, a show of Hawaiian feather art.  These were garments worn by traditionally by royalty and the nobility. 

 Magnificent capes. 

 A more contemporary vest designed for western tastes. 

 These helmets were actually worn to protect the wearer in battle. 

 This was unlike anything we have seen before -- a coat made from the breasts of mures. 

 And another first: feathers twisted together used as money.