Thursday, May 21, 2015

Day 10: Melk, Wachau Valley, Durnstein Austria

Our guides had been preparing us for the Baroque extravagance of Melk Abbey, or more precisely, the church within the abbey.  The abbey was built by a private family who donated it to the Benedictine monks on 1089.  It has been an abbey ever since and now serves also as a school.  







We walked first through a museum display of some of the artifacts of the abbey, including vestments and objects used during mass, and books and documents.   



 This reminded us of the stoves used to heat the palaces in Russia.









This is a safe that required several locks to be operated inside and outside to open.  



After the museum we visited what would have been the ballroom of the original palace. 




 

The ballroom gave out to a broad terrace with a better view of the buildings themselves as well as a breathtaking view. 






The abbey is known for its extensive library, but no photos were permitted since the volumes, some in vellum and parchment, are too fragile.  

The church was a spiral staircase away.  Once at the entrance of the church, it was such a riot of decoration, it was hard to know where to look.  Every surface was encrusted with cupids or reliefs or paintings, and it seemed like everything was covered in gold.  With the exquisite excess, it  is hard to imagine the (one hopes) humble monks using the church as they have for over 900 years.  















































After the church, we walked back outside, and had just enough time to make a brief walk across the formal gardens to  what must have been the orangerie, now a tearoom. 


 After the excesses of the church, the fanciful frescoes in a tropical theme were a welcome relief. 



 Now back to the bus...
 ... and back to the ship. 



Once on board, we left Melk and the Abbey in a heavy downpour. 





But our day was just beginning.  In the afternoon we passed through the Wachau Valley, one of the most beautiful along our route.  We had seen vineyards for a few days, but here it was plainly almost the only crop, augmented by apricots which are made into wines and liqueurs.

We passed more riverside villages, including Willendorf, where the iconic statue of Venus was found.
 The maypole was still intact. 
 





Our second and final stop of the day was Durnstein, known for its white and apricot wines, and for the ruins of the castle above the town.  Famously Richard the Lionheart was kept prisoner there by a duke.  Legend has it that he was found by a courtier with whom he had been raised.  The courtier searched for Richard for months.  His method was to sing a song outside the castle which only Richard would know.  When Richard returned the song at this castle, the courtier knew he had found his man. 









 We took the train to the town.

 The old town is surrounded by Roman walls. 




 Maypole! 




 From the promontory, we saw another ship heading upstream.






 And then it was back to the ship. 















No comments: