"Main" means snake in German, and so a good name for the Main River, which snakes around quite a lot. It passes both Miltenberg, known for its half-timbered buildings, and Wertheim, another picturesque village in Bavaria.
Our first view of Miltenberg was of its Maypole, still standing at a street corner near the main thoroughfare of the old town.
Our local guide took us through the town, pointing out various points of interest, particularly the first hotel in the world, the Zum Reisen, where traders traveling along the river could stop and rest, and of course, trade.
What is not so apparent in these photos is the shape of the hotel -- it is shaped like a ship, with its entrance in the bow.
I had seen these structures below on other walls in old towns in France but never realized their purpose. With carts and wagons barreling down the streets, pedestrians could stand next to the walls between these structures to avoid being hit. Drivers avoided them because if the wheels struck the stones, they would break.
We saw an apothecary's garden.
The city water works below street level.
Water levels of historic floods.
The city square, with a fountain. The sculptor of the fountain was not paid his full price because the mayor, who lived across the square did not like it. The sculptor had the final say, since he left a mooning figure facing the mayor's house.
We went by bus from Miltenberg to Wertheim, as our ship motored on to meet us.
Wertheim was another charming Bavarian village with half-timbered houses. In addition to the recounting of more historic floods...
we heard how medieval builders would add on to homes by going upwards, sometimes with one room directly on top of another
The confluence of the Main and its tributaries even now means frequent and disastrous flooding that towns like Wertheim cannot avoid.
Our local guide told us how the American Army in World War II was approaching from the east of the town, and about to summit the hill there, which would lead to certain bombing and fighting in the town. The local officials refused to take action to avoid it. Three young men climbed up to this castle on the hill opposite to raise a white flag, avoiding certain destruction of the town. At the time they were considered traitors, and only in the last few years have been posthumously recognized as heroes who saved the town.
We walked through town to the ship, and enjoyed an evening sail to our next destination.
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