Belle Epoch Walking Tour

On Saturday we took another of the wonderful walking tours by Paris Walks, this time of the Belle Epoch.  We started at the Madeleine, a large, big, enormous church dedicated by Napoleon to the glory of his armies.  It does not look like much of a church from the outside, and is designed to complement the Assembly Nationale across the river.  Inside it is definitely a church, but is not in the shape of a cross, and does not have the many chapels off on the sides, as most of this size do. 

We arrived early to explore the area ans the chic shops nearby.  Turns out we saw much of the tour area, although we did not really know what we were seeing until we went with the group and heard the guide's description. 

 

We walked across the street to what was Proust's home, #9.  Much of the description of the area, from the shops and theaters that had been in the area, to the nearby park and fountain, referenced Proust and his work.  I guess I will have to break down and read his books.  By the way, the madeleine -- a cake-like cookie -- that supposedly inspired his major work was not what we now call a madeleine at all (and named for the area), but toast.

We made our way around the corner to another of the passages, the first shopping malls of the day, when the well-off could go to actually look at shops, visit theaters, and go to that new invention, the restaurant.  

On the other side were a few noteworthy shops such as Laduree, the patisserie du moment -- they invented the filled macaroon cookies that are a must have here and elsewhere; Haviland, the American family that makes the US presidential dishes, the official medal-maker for France, and world-famous Maxim's, included in our tour because of the art-nouveau detailing that once was ubiquitous in this area, but has mostly disappeared. 

Next we walked across Place Concorde to the gardens, which were deserted as the result of a police action.  The day before the french newspaper had ;published cartoons about Mohammed, and the whole country seemed to be on alert for flash demonstrations.  Since this was near the presidential home, and the most protected building in France, the US embassy and ambassador's home, much of the area was blocked off by well-armed police and military.  Our tour was on detour for most of this part, but we did have the advantage of seeing the area behind police barricades without the usual throngs. 

In fact, we could see the gates to the gardens of the president of France, which will be opened for the first time the first Sunday of each month, sadly after we leave.  Note the barricades; out of view: the half dozen very well armed and very serious cops. 

 
Our tour ended at the Petit and Grand Palaises.  Because the metro stations nearby were closed -- that security issue again -- we walked another mile or so across the river to an open station, and home. 

The Grand Palais;

the Petit Palais across the street.

 What is it with weddings and bridges?

 The Grand Palais from across the river.

 The Assembly Nationale -- note the same design as the corresponding Madeleine across the river.